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Artist of the Outports–David Blackwood

  Newfoundland is a place that dwarfs human life. It is surrounded by deep, black water and massive ocean icefields. It is covered with expanses of scrubby marsh and misty lumps of rocks. This...

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Trinity and the Skerwink Trail

  You can’t follow every road. Therein lies the crux of the traveler’s dilemma–too many roads, too many nooks and crannies. Too many tangents and digressions and detours to explore, either on a road...

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Where the Vikings landed

  It was a perfect day for a road trip: bright sun on an azure ocean reflecting a cerulean sky. A day like this is not to be taken lightly in soggy Newfoundland. Julia and I had started early from Cow...

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Before Columbus there was Leif

  Clayton Colbourne began fishing when he was seven years old. This was not your daddy’s fishing where you sit on a quiet lake slowly baking in the midday sun, and maybe you end up with a couple of...

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Searching for bakeapple

  M is for mash, Or marish or mish, A wet, grassy spot where your rubbers go squish. With blackflies and bog Aunt Bertha will grapple Whenever she goes there To pick the bakeapple....

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The most surly artist in Newfoundland

  The weather turned ugly as Julia and I headed back south on Newfoundland’s Viking Trail. What had been warm sun on bright sea only a few days before had turned to gray skies and wind-lashed foam....

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Farewell to Canada

  September was half over. Days in Newfoundland were becoming short and wet. Like migrating birds, we were drawn toward home. From the back of the ferry, I watched the misty lump of Newfoundland...

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Travel in Canada. The Cost

  Most of us like a little peek–under the hood, the skirts, the sheets. Whatever. To satisfy that niggling curiosity, here’s what our jaunt through Canada’s eastern provinces cost for Julia and I....

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